How can I secure this metal 1-gang electrical box without creating a bigger hole?
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
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I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago
add a comment |
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I removed wood paneling in a room to reveal shoddy plaster & lath. I covered it with 3/8 in. drywall. I now need to add spacers to electrical outlets and a light switch.
Except for this one electrical outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I'm guessing the previous owner secured it to the lath that is now broken/missing?):
electrical drywall walls
electrical drywall walls
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
New contributor
Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
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Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
asked 1 hour ago
Kai
1212
1212
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Kai is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago
add a comment |
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago
Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
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You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
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What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tipmof the threads.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
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3 Answers
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active
oldest
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
You are going to need metal tabs that go behind the drywall then fold into the box to keep it secure.
These tabs are strong, but kind of harder to get installed.
You will have to take the plug out to make room to fold the tabs inside the metal box.
While you are in there, you really need a clamp to hold each wire to the box. (only one wire per knockout).
If there is room bringing the wires in from the back of the box will make is much easier to slip into the hole in the wall.
with e wire properly secured to the box, Start by slipping the tabs behind the wall and plaster. Now put the box in and bend the tabs inside the box. Reinstall the plug and you are done.
If you were not dealing with armored cable a new plastic rework box (home depot link) would arguably be the easiest sulition.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
New contributor
David is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
New contributor
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Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
answered 1 hour ago
David
2615
2615
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add a comment |
add a comment |
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
add a comment |
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
add a comment |
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
What you need is a metal old work box this has adjustable clamps that hold on the sheetrock. There are cheap plastic ones and better quality metal ones you will want one with clamps to do it right as those conduits are not clamped and they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and work the box into the hole then tighten the wings
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
answered 24 mins ago
Ed Beal
30.6k12144
30.6k12144
add a comment |
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tipmof the threads.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tipmof the threads.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tipmof the threads.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
The simplest way is to replace that box with one that has flanges on each end (and built-in clamps in the back for that flex conduit). The flanges have holes for #6 flathead screws.
Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plaster and into the lath, and simply screw it to the wall.
- The diameter of the drill should be equal to --or a little smaller-- than the root (smallest) diameter below the threads themselves. That'll be near the tipmof the threads.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 1 hour ago
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
answered 1 hour ago
Mike Waters
29116
29116
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Mike Waters is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Kai is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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Much as I love metal boxes, don't consider that one to be the holy grail. Not least, one where the cables go in the end of the box will be more desirable because it will be easier to fit in the hole. Come to think of it, this might be a great time to go for a bigger box that'll fully use the hole's space, e.g. A 4x4 or even a 120mm (4-11/16) square.c
– Harper
18 mins ago