What causes circular saw to wander when cutting?





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My Makita circular saw wanders to the right, even when trying to follow a guide! Why?






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  • Is the blade warped?
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday






  • 2




    What guide? The included rip fence?
    – isherwood
    yesterday










  • Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
    – Wayfaring Stranger
    yesterday

















up vote
1
down vote

favorite












My Makita circular saw wanders to the right, even when trying to follow a guide! Why?






circular-saw







share|improve this question









New contributor




macmccolm is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Is the blade warped?
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday






  • 2




    What guide? The included rip fence?
    – isherwood
    yesterday










  • Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
    – Wayfaring Stranger
    yesterday













up vote
1
down vote

favorite









up vote
1
down vote

favorite











My Makita circular saw wanders to the right, even when trying to follow a guide! Why?






circular-saw







share|improve this question









New contributor




macmccolm is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











My Makita circular saw wanders to the right, even when trying to follow a guide! Why?






circular-saw




circular-saw






share|improve this question









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macmccolm is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









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edited yesterday









isherwood

43.5k453108




43.5k453108






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asked yesterday









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macmccolm is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






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Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • Is the blade warped?
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday






  • 2




    What guide? The included rip fence?
    – isherwood
    yesterday










  • Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
    – Wayfaring Stranger
    yesterday


















  • Is the blade warped?
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday






  • 2




    What guide? The included rip fence?
    – isherwood
    yesterday










  • Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
    – Wayfaring Stranger
    yesterday
















Is the blade warped?
– ratchet freak
yesterday




Is the blade warped?
– ratchet freak
yesterday




2




2




What guide? The included rip fence?
– isherwood
yesterday




What guide? The included rip fence?
– isherwood
yesterday












Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
– Wayfaring Stranger
yesterday




Blades try to follow the weakest path through wood grain. It's up to the operator to push appropriately when moving past/through knotholes etc.
– Wayfaring Stranger
yesterday










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
6
down vote













Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.



The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.



The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.



I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.



I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.






share|improve this answer























  • Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday






  • 1




    I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
    – J...
    yesterday








  • 1




    I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
    – amI
    yesterday











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1 Answer
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up vote
6
down vote













Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.



The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.



The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.



I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.



I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.






share|improve this answer























  • Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday






  • 1




    I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
    – J...
    yesterday








  • 1




    I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
    – amI
    yesterday















up vote
6
down vote













Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.



The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.



The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.



I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.



I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.






share|improve this answer























  • Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday






  • 1




    I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
    – J...
    yesterday








  • 1




    I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
    – amI
    yesterday













up vote
6
down vote










up vote
6
down vote









Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.



The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.



The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.



I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.



I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.






share|improve this answer














Three things can cause wandering (or what seems like wandering). The first is a misaligned table and/or fence. The cut isn't actually wandering, but it seems like it is visually because of how the table is tracking across the workpiece.



The second is the use of modern "thin kerf" blades for rip cuts. While they're fantastically fast for crosscuts, they tend to "oil can" while cutting with the grain, which can cause severe wandering, especially with hard or thick boards. You'll have to work harder to keep a straight line or switch to a more conventional blade, wherein the heavier blade disk is more stable.



The third is user error. Are you applying rotational force as you push the saw? Are you preventing drag on the blade from doing so? The drag from the blade is slightly offset from the saw handle, so there's an inherent tendency for rotation in that direction.



I suggest a second-finger-trigger grip--use your second (middle) finger for the trigger, and place your first (index) finger along the front of the trigger guard. This gives you much better torsional control of the saw.



I've used Makita circular saws exclusively since the 1990s. They're consistently precise and smooth. Unless your saw has sustained damage or is extremely worn, this is probably worth consideration.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited yesterday

























answered yesterday









isherwood

43.5k453108




43.5k453108












  • Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday






  • 1




    I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
    – J...
    yesterday








  • 1




    I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
    – amI
    yesterday


















  • Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday






  • 1




    I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
    – J...
    yesterday








  • 1




    I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
    – amI
    yesterday
















Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
– Ed Beal
yesterday




Good tip on trigger, we do these things with out thinking about them after so many years and forget unless training someone in person.
– Ed Beal
yesterday




1




1




I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
– J...
yesterday






I'd maybe add a final possibily that the blade is incredibly trashed - really, really dull, especially if it's asymetrically dull (someone has a habit of dropping it on concrete while its spinning down? Other abuse?). If the inside cuts poorly but the outside cuts well this can cause the blade to steer towards the sharp side.
– J...
yesterday






1




1




I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
– amI
yesterday




I like the "oil can" phrase for the dishing, although it can be transient: the convex side of the blade will experience more friction and expand, resulting in positive feedback (either more one-sided friction, or a turning cut to avoid it).
– amI
yesterday










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