How do you drill concentric holes of different diameters on a drill press?
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Often times I need to drill maybe a 1/4" hole, all the way through the piece, and then a 3/8" or 1/2" hole half way through the piece in the same spot. It is often imperative that these holes are exactly concentric.
With a smaller drill press, you cannot just keep the workpiece clamped in place because to remove the smaller bit and replace it with a larger bit (or vice-verse) will end up breaking the alignment and it's nearly impossible to get it back again (within a few thousandths of an inch) by eye.
Are there special drill bits or guides for this purpose?
drilling drill-bits
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
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asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
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up vote
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down vote
favorite
Often times I need to drill maybe a 1/4" hole, all the way through the piece, and then a 3/8" or 1/2" hole half way through the piece in the same spot. It is often imperative that these holes are exactly concentric.
With a smaller drill press, you cannot just keep the workpiece clamped in place because to remove the smaller bit and replace it with a larger bit (or vice-verse) will end up breaking the alignment and it's nearly impossible to get it back again (within a few thousandths of an inch) by eye.
Are there special drill bits or guides for this purpose?
drilling drill-bits
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
1211
New contributor
AgmLauncher is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
Often times I need to drill maybe a 1/4" hole, all the way through the piece, and then a 3/8" or 1/2" hole half way through the piece in the same spot. It is often imperative that these holes are exactly concentric.
With a smaller drill press, you cannot just keep the workpiece clamped in place because to remove the smaller bit and replace it with a larger bit (or vice-verse) will end up breaking the alignment and it's nearly impossible to get it back again (within a few thousandths of an inch) by eye.
Are there special drill bits or guides for this purpose?
drilling drill-bits
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
1211
New contributor
AgmLauncher is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Often times I need to drill maybe a 1/4" hole, all the way through the piece, and then a 3/8" or 1/2" hole half way through the piece in the same spot. It is often imperative that these holes are exactly concentric.
With a smaller drill press, you cannot just keep the workpiece clamped in place because to remove the smaller bit and replace it with a larger bit (or vice-verse) will end up breaking the alignment and it's nearly impossible to get it back again (within a few thousandths of an inch) by eye.
Are there special drill bits or guides for this purpose?
drilling drill-bits
drilling drill-bits
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
1211
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AgmLauncher is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
1211
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edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
edited 14 hours ago
Kromster
226110
226110
asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
1211
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AgmLauncher is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
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asked 2 days ago
AgmLauncher
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1211
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Check out our Code of Conduct.
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Check out our Code of Conduct.
The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday
add a comment |
The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday
The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
5
down vote
Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:
- Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.
- Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.
If you use, say a 1/16" bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16" hole.
Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his comments on the OP accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a counterbore tool. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
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MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4" and the 3/8" hole.
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
5
down vote
Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
5
down vote
Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
5
down vote
up vote
5
down vote
Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
Forstner bits have a small point on the end which leaves a slight indentation in the wood in the center of the hole. Use this to align your drill bits after changing them. But, to do this, you'll have to drill them the opposite way you're thinking - drill the biggest (but shallowest) hole first, followed by the next smallest / deepest. This keeps that slight indentation from the point on the drill bit present in the wood, allowing you to align the next drill bit.
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
answered 2 days ago
mmathis
1,972530
1,972530
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
add a comment |
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
I've found this does not work with softwood, or plywood because it's very easy for the point of the forster acting as a probe to alter the existing point in the shallower hole. And because the point of the forstner is not conical (but rather, a two-edge blade), it can be quite easy for the alignment to be off by a few thousands of an inch. This can have an adverse effect on the precision of say, a threaded insert or a bushing, often resulting in binding of the screw. Generally the point of a forster is NOT a reliable register for exact concentricity.
– AgmLauncher
2 days ago
1
1
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
@AgmLauncher For what it's worth Even though the tip of the Forstner is not conical, the divot that it produces is conical.
– Ast Pace
yesterday
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:
- Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.
- Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.
If you use, say a 1/16" bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16" hole.
Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his comments on the OP accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:
- Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.
- Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.
If you use, say a 1/16" bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16" hole.
Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his comments on the OP accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:
- Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.
- Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.
If you use, say a 1/16" bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16" hole.
Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his comments on the OP accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
Similar to the other answers, but for any drill bit type:
- Drill a very small pilot hole deeper than the shallowest, big diameter hole. Use a standard twist bit. Limit depth if this is to be a stopped (not through) hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the largest diameter, shallowest hole.
- Use your small pilot hole to center the new bit while you drill the next smaller diameter, slightly deeper hole.
- Lather, rinse, repeat until you have the smallest, deepest hole.
If you use, say a 1/16" bit for your pilot hole, your 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" bits of any sort should line themselves up quite nicely on that 1/16" hole.
Additionally, as Graphus pointed out in his comments on the OP accuracy within a few thousandths is highly unlikely with home- or even commercial-grade woodworking drill presses. You'd likely need an expensive CNC drill press to achieve that accuracy and a much harder, or at least much more consistent material (plastic or metal) to achieve that kind of precision.
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
edited 13 hours ago
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
answered yesterday
FreeMan
2,5991129
2,5991129
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
1
1
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
Your final comment was basically what I was going to say to the OP if/when he came back. And even if you can achieve this accuracy in wood, without the wood itself causing a problem, there's little chance that subsequent seasonal movement won't cause an issue at some point down the line (and likely sooner rather than later) if the thing is built to tolerances this high.
– Graphus
20 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
@Graphus that's why I said you said it! ;)
– FreeMan
13 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a counterbore tool. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a counterbore tool. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a counterbore tool. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
You can drill the smaller through-hole first, then use a counterbore tool. The end of the counterbore will use the through-hole as a guide and will cut a flat-bottomed hole of a larger size exactly centered on the smaller hole.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
answered 2 days ago
MTA
1111
1111
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
MTA is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4" and the 3/8" hole.
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4" and the 3/8" hole.
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4" and the 3/8" hole.
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
If you use brad point drill bits drill the larger one first then carefully center the smaller one over the point (left in the hole) of the larger one then drill through. OR Drill a very small hole as a center point through the board use this as a center for the 1/4" and the 3/8" hole.
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
answered yesterday
Monte Glover
602
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Monte Glover
602
602
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The woodworking guides suggest this is actually very simple, you are supposed to be able to replace a smaller bit with one or more larger bits without moving the workpiece and breaking alignment. But this ability obviously depends on the design of the drill press and on the length of some or all of the bits being used and how they relate to the workpiece height. Now that said, saying you need a bigger drill press isn't really a viable answer! And there are other means to ensure you get near-perfect concentricity no matter which hole you drill first BUT....
– Graphus
yesterday
......you're asking too much of the material to achieve accuracy within a few thousandths of an inch every time. Especially with softer woods, especially including most common softwoods, the wood itself just won't allow this (even with the best equipment in the world). Accuracy in the range of a couple hundredths is all you can realistically expect sometimes, because wood is inherently variable (and occasionally contrary) stuff!
– Graphus
yesterday